Moja M, the art of orange wine seduction
Moja M, 2016 from Ivo Duboković.
Moja M is an orange wine, skin-contact wine, amber wine, call it whatever you like. I call it spectacular. It is 100% Maraština, an indigenous Dalmatian grape variety that can be found along the entire Dalmatian coastline, but that can also be found in Greece on Zakynthos under the name Pavlos, and in Italy as Malvasia Biancha Lunga. It macerates for weeks on end on the perfectly ripe berries of Maraština grapes before it undergoes lees ageing. The wine was supposed to be called The Grand White from Hvar and ended up being named Moja M, as in my Maraština, and I would just add my great Maraština.
Maceration in progress in winemaker Ivo Duboković’s cellar in Jelsa on the sunny island of Hvar.
The vintage 2016 was perfect, and that perfection is felt in every sniff and sip of Moja M. The first nose is elegantly perfumed, but not overwhelmingly so, and the notes of dates, candied oranges and dried Mediterranean herbs invite you to allow this wine to open a bit longer. Quickly, the notes of hay with underlying nuttiness take over. However, every time you put your nose into the glass with Moja M it gives you a different recipe of Mediterranean scents.
The true greatness of this wine is felt on the palate. The silky smoothness with just enough tannins, beautifully ripe tannins, with the taste reminiscent of light quince marmalade, and acidity that clears it just enough to prepare for the next sip makes this wine a drinking sensation.
I had it with seabass, pear and honey pate and some lightly smoked semi-hard cow cheese from Dalmatian hinterland. Make sure to enjoy it at room temperature and in great company.
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Zoran, wine expert and co-founder
